Activated EM-1® (EMAS)

Activated EM-1® (EMAS)

Harga: RM 10.00 / Liter
pH: 3.4 – 3.6 
S.G: 1.2

EM-1® Microbial Inoculant products can be used directly from the bottle or they are grown one time for economical purposes. This “growing” process is called Activation Solution (EMAS). The normal activation process is to take one part EM-1® and make 22 times the amount through a simple fermentation process. Below are instructions on how to do this simple process that normally takes anywhere from 5-10 days to complete when done properly.

The cooler temperature, the longer fermentation takes to complete. And, the process is done without air. Any local home brewing supplier will have the materials you will need to have a successful Activation. These items include airlocks, carboys, tubing, etc. If you want to keep it really simple, you may use a clean soda bottle with a screw on top. These bottles are very good because they can take a tremendous amount of pressure and can be found virtually anywhere.

To prepare 22 parts of Activated EM-1® (EMAS) from 1 part of EM-1®.

• A clean airtight plastic bottle or container or large tank with lid.
• 1 part EM-1®. (5% of the total volume)
• 1 part Sugar Cane Molasses. (5% of the total volume)
• 20 parts warm water 38°C

Tools to help the preparation process

• A funnel
• A measuring cup and spoon
• pH paper / pH meter to check pH

To Make 1 liter or quart

1. Add water to fill 80% of the plastic bottle
2. Then add 50ml (1.7oz) of molasses and 50ml (1.7oz) of EM-1® in the bottle
3. Shake the bottle to dissolve the molasses. Top off with water.
4. Cap the bottle tightly and keep in a warm place.

Making 5 gallons of Activated EM-1®

1. Add water to fill 50% of the plastic container
2. Then add 28 oz. of molasses and 28 oz of EM-1® in the bottle*
3. Shake the container to dissolve the molasses and top off the container with warm water.
4. Cap the container tightly and keep in a warm place

*Dissolve the molasses with warm or hot water before adding it to the container. This makes the preparation easier.

Making 55 gallons (208 liters) Activated EM-1®

1. Add 30 gallons 38°C Water
2. Add 2.5 gallons molasses
3. Add EM-1® Microbial Inoculant
4. Fill drum with 38°C Water
5. Seal drum and keep in warm place

Making a tote of (275 gallons) or 1,000 liters of Activated EM-1®

1. Add water to fill half of the tank
2. Then add 12 gallons of molasses and 12 gallons of EM-1® to the tank*
3. Top off the tank with more warm water to prevent excess airspace.
4. Cap the tank tightly and keep in a warm place

When is it ready?

When the pH of the solution drops to 3.7 or below and has rested at this pH for 5-7 days, the Activated EM-1® is ready to use. You will have about 30-45 days to use it at this point.

* Dissolve the molasses with warm or hot water before adding it to the tank.
This makes the preparation easier.

**During the fermentation process pressure builds up in the containers as the microbes digest the sugars. To avoid rupturing the container, “burp” it and reseal. Burping may have to be done one or more times per day. You may also use airlocks or blow off tubes.

NOTE

EM-1® likes warm conditions. A suitable temperature for fermentation (propagation) of EM-1® is from 86°F to 104°F (30°C to 40°C). After making the Activated EM-1® (EMAS), place the Activated EM-1® (EMAS) next to a radiator, space heater, or other warm device, or even wrap it in a blanket or an insulator, in order to promote EM-1® fermentation for 4-5 days.

STORAGE

Activated EM-1® (EMAS) should be kept in an expandable (plastic) air-tight container to keep it anaerobic (oxygenless).

Store Activated Activated EM-1® (EMAS) at room temperature, 68°F to 86°F (20°C-30°C). Refrigeration is not necessary.

In containers that are not completely airtight, a white layer of yeast will form on the surface. Since this may lead to putrefaction, remove the layer as needed and transfer to a container that can be closed tightly. Be sure to leave as little airspace in the bottle as possible.

If Activated EM-1® (EMAS) has a foul smell or the pH rises above 4.0, the solution could be contaminated with undesirable microbes and should be discarded. This material is fine to pour into a long-term compost pile.

original article: www.emamerica.com and Edited by Bumi Segar Fish & Farm

Rockwool as a Substrate for Hydroponic Growing Systems

What is Rockwool? Rockwool is a man-made mineral fiber. The vast majority of rockwool used in the world is used for insulation purposes much like fiberglass. However, the properties of rockwool can be substantially changed by adjusting the mineral content. In the early 1960s it was found that following several modifications to the manufacturing process rockwool would support and, under the right handling practices, promote plant growth. This specially produced horticultural rockwool is what is primarily sold as a hydroponic substrate. (From now on the term “rockwool” will specifically refer to the horticultural grade product). Rockwool is manufactured by melting basaltic rock and spinning the melt into fibers. Immediately following spinning, a binder is added to the fibers and they are compressed and cured into large slabs. By adjusting the amount of pressure, the density of the media is adjusted. The large slabs can be cut into smaller slabs and propagation blocks for easy handling. The spun fibers are also formed into a granulated (flocked) product which can be handled in a manner similar to bales of peat. All rockwools are not the same. The best are produced from pure basaltic rock (diabase). The rockwools produced from diabase have a mineral balance that is inert and nonreactive. A few rockwools are produced from slag left over from smelting operations. These rockwools contain a high proportion of metals and may be somewhat reactive with the nutrient solution. High quality rockwools should have a uniform fiber diameter, even binder distribution and a low proportion of shot (mineral pellets that have not been spun into fibers).

The most important quality a high grade rockwool should have is uniform wetting. The rockwool should wet easily but not remain water-soaked. Good drainage is important. The wetting characteristics of rockwools vary considerably. Rockwool fibers are naturally hydrophobic (they repel water) because of the presence of mineral oil. In the highest quality rockwools the mineral oils are removed during the manufacturing process and mineral wetting agents are incorporated in the melt. This form of horticultural grade rockwool naturally attracts water and wets easily. While this is the highest quality process the actual quality of the rockwool will depend upon the care taken in manufacturing. Other manufacturers simply add or provide a chemical surfactant (essentially a refined soap) that allows the naturally hydrophobic rockwool to hold water. The major drawback to this approach is that the wetting agent must be supplied regularly or it may wash out. The best way to determine the quality of the various rockwools available is to test them. See if the wetting is uniform or if there is a large proportion of shot. If you want to try a new product it is worth the time to test it.

Grodan WCM is a handheld meter specifically design to take measurements in rockwool. It measures water content, EC and pH The meter is not intended for hobby use, but it is a valuable tool for commercial growershttp://www.grodan.com /sw52503.asp

Substrate Irrigation Rockwool can be used in either a recirculating irrigation system or in a “drain to waste” (single pass) system. In the former, the runoff the nutrient solution is collected, replenished and reapplied to the substrate. In the single pass system the runoff is drained into the ground or routed to a holding pond. The most common substrate irrigation system is the single pass system. The main reason for this is that the grower always knows the composition of the nutrient solution he is applying. In a recirculating system the solution will gradually become unbalanced, unless the solution is tested for each nutrient. A rapidly growing vine crop such as tomato can remove a considerable amount of nutrients in a day. In a “drain to waste” system the grower can increase the feeding time and be confident a balanced solution is reaching his crop. A second reason for using a “drain to waste” system is to avoid the spread of disease. In most substrate systems only a few plants share the same root zone and any disease will be confined to these few plants. The argument is that disease can spread throughout a recirculating system. However, the evidence that disease will spread through otherwise healthy plants is unconvincing. Usually the plants must be stressed or damaged before disease will spread. Thus, the management of the nutrition in the root zone rather than disease control is a far more important argument for using a single pass irrigation system. The main drawback of a single pass system is that fertilizer is wasted. In general, about 15% to 20% of the nutrient solution applied is runoff. This is not a large amount given the control over nutrition that is possible. As technology becomes available that allows for the testing and replenishment of individual nutrients, a recirculating system that provides a balanced feed, without the waste, will be possible. For now this technology is too complicated and expensive. (Update by Grodan: Today the environmentally friendly re-circulating systems are used extensively in particular in Europe but spreading quickly across the world)
Grower using re-circulating system often choose to sterilize the drain water before sending it back to the plants. One of the following two methods are often used: UV sterilization or ozone sterilization. Please see below links for further information.
			UV sterilization: Look under: Water Treatment, Vialux Ozone sterilization: Note: requires Iodine to work

Set-up of a Rockwool System

In many ways the setup of a rockwool or substrate growing system for vine crops is simple and inexpensive. The irrigation/feed system itself is a simple drip irrigation system with dripper capacity of 2 liters/hour and one dripper for each plant. The nutrients are supplied using a two-head injector and fertilizer concentrate tanks. By knowing the bicarbonate concentration of your raw water, the appropriate amount of acid can be added to your concentrate tanks so that the pH of your feed solution is between 5.5 and 6.0. Remember that it is important to have your raw water analyzed so that a properly balanced nutrient formula can be mixed. Timing of irrigation can be accomplished by simply attaching a timer to a solenoid value in the feed line. Irrigation controllers are also available. For rockwool growing it is possible to use an irrigation control tray. This tray indirectly measures the water content of the rockwool slab and triggers and irrigation when the level drops below a set amount. This system automatically provides water based on plant demand giving the grower more time to spend managing the crop. The exact layout of the greenhouse depends upon the crop grown. Generally, the floor is covered with white or preferably black and white poly. Rockwool slabs are placed in the rows, holes for plants are cut in the plastic surrounding the slabs and the drippers placed in the holes. The irrigation system is turned on and the slabs fill with solution. Seedlings are placed on the slabs and drainage slits cut in the slabs as well as the plastic floor. The key factor in managing the system is measuring the pH and EC in the slab. Samples should be taken in the morning, more often if possible. Even though the substrate has a considerable buffering capacity, the EC and pH may change during the day. The concentration of salts in slab are managed as previously discussed. Eventually the grower acquires a feel for how much solution the crop uses in a day and how the pH and EC change. He can then adjust the frequency and time of irrigation in anticipation of these changes. Rockwool and other Substrates Rockwool is an inorganic substrate as are sand, gravel and perlite. The main features of this class of substrates are that they have little cation exchange capacity and they maintain their structure over a long period of time. In general, at field capacity, rockwool holds more water per unit volume than the other inorganic substrates and therefore has a greater buffering capacity. The larger reserves of a nutrient solution coupled with excellent drainage makes rockwool easier to handle as an inorganic sub strate. Organic substrates, peat, sawdust, etc. can have excellent water holding and release characteristics. The major drawback of these materials is that they decompose over a period of time. As decomposition proceeds the water holding capacity of the substrate changes. Thus, the grower must be aware of not only the growth of the plant but the changes in the substrate. For growers who are not experienced with hydroponics or liquid feeding the organic substrates may be easier to learn on than the inorganic substrates. Organic substrates, especially peat, have some cation exchange capacity. This gives the grower some buffer against nutrient changes in the root zone. This may help the new grower manage nutrition. Another advantage of most organic media is that they are inexpensive. Of course the grower must always balance the cost with the effectiveness and yield. The hydrocarbon-based substrates have not been widely used. The water holding capacity of these can be very good. Their longevity is generally better than the organic substrates, but is not as great as inorganic substrates. The lack of wide acceptance of these media may have to do with cost. Conclusion The use of the hydroponic substrate system in general and rockwool in particular for vine crop and some cut flower production has been proven worldwide. In Holland, a respected world leader in greenhouse vegetable and cut flower production, of 3550 hectares of vegetables, 2350 are on substrate and 1900 of that are on Grodan Rockwool. Considering cut flowers, of the 1600 hectares total, 160 hectares are on Grodan Rockwool. In North America the trend is toward growing on substrates. Ease of handling (labor savings), better control over nutrition and better disease management are all reasons for this trend. These factors all point to more yield at lower cost.

Original Article from: http://www.hydroponics101.com

Title: How-To Hydroponics 4th Edition
Author: Keith Roberto
Subject: How to build and operate your own hydroponic and aeroponic systems indoors and out.

E-book keluaran ke-4 dari Keith Reberto. Mempunyai segala maklumat tentang penanaman hidroponik yang terkini termasuk berbagai system hydroponic seperti aeroponic, NFT dll.. mempunyai 98 halaman. gambar menarik dan mudah difahami…sila rujuk gambar diatas.

untuk mendapatkanmya boleh email saya di fandi@bumisegarfish.com

Our hydroponic full set equipment is simple, easy and cheap that can be used by everyone. It can produce fresh, clean and poison-free vegetables by just leave it in verandah, balcony, corridor and porch. This set is suitable for those that do not have land or space to do cultivation for example terrace house, apartments, kondominium and flat.

International Consultants to Practical Hydroponics and Greenhousesclaims that Hydroponics are, “a good alternative for producing safer urban crops.” There are many cases available through the International Consultants to Practical Hydroponics and Greenhouses website that offer evidence to support the claim that hydroponic farming in an urban setting is both environmentally beneficial and a viable source of food.

The following are the benefits as outlined by International Consultants to Practical Hydroponics and Greenhouses.

* Isolation from soil. Planting takes place at a convenient height, where soil pollution has no impact. Plants are grown in water containers or in low–cost natural substrates (sand, rice husk, pumice, etc.). With this system, it is possible to grow a vast range of vegetables, for example, lettuce, tomatoes, carrots, celery, watercress eggplants, beans, parsley, wild radish, leeks, strawberries, melons, aromatic and medicinal plants, etc.

* Use of limited space. One of its main advantages of hydroponics is the possibility of using urban spaces which until now had not been considered adequate for growing food

* High efficiency in the use of irrigation water. Water is recycled and does not pollute the environment.

* Pest, disease and weed control. Hydroponic systems facilitate the adoption of Integrated Pest Management (IPM) programs. There is also a significant reduction in the use of chemicals once used to control pests and weeds. Moreover, neither the produce nor the environment is contaminated by chemicals.

* Higher yields and shorter times between harvests. Hence, total output is greater than the case of conventional soil systems.

* Easy to learn. The technique is easy to understand, it does not require prior knowledge and concrete results are achieved quickly.

* Potential use of recycled materials. It is possible to use recycled materials to build growing systems. Subsequently, growers can use materials they already have on hand, e.g. wood, disposable packaging materials.

* Source of income from direct sales. It promotes family or community owned micro-enterprises.

* Food is of a high quality. Fruit and vegetables have a high biological and dietary value. Crops for household consumption are harvested when they are ready to be used. Hence, produce is fresh and has its nutritional and medicinal properties intact (vitamins, minerals, phyto-nutrients, etc).

Although hydroponics seems like a modern and high-tech form of farming , it has deep roots. The first hydroponic experiments, in fact, were done in the early 1600s by Sir Francis Bacon, who was the father of hydroponic growing, although he called it “water culture” – but Bacon’s plants did poorly in the distilled water that he thought would be the ideal medium. It took another century or so before early agronomists realized that the micronutrients present in ordinary water were necessary for plant vitality.

The word hydroponics was coined in 1937, and it was about that time that the agricultural world started to get seriously interested. In Latin, it means “water working.” Early hydroponics proponents made some exaggerated claims for the method’s potential – but even after discounting some of the hyperbole, hydroponics remains an extremely viable method of growing crops. Some of the key advantages of hydroponics:

* Hydroponically grown plants can be provided with the exact amount of water needed – not a drop more, not a drop less. In fact, the water use efficiency of hydroponics is astoundingly high – a properly-designed hydroponic setup will use 10% of the water it would take to grow in soil outdoors.

* Hydroponically grown plants require much less land surface. Plants can be stacked (or even placed on multiple-story buildings, for high-density areas) with extreme efficiency – a hydroponic greenhouse can produce as much plant matter as a conventional field ten times the size.

* Hydroponics requires no soil whatsoever, meaning that farming can be done in areas with poor or even no soil – famously, Wake Island was hydroponically supplied with vegetables during WWII.

* Hydroponic farms can be located wherever power and water are cheap, and can be placed in close proximity to the demand for the crop, reducing or even eliminating shipping costs.

Because hydroponic greenhouses are environmentally-controlled, the need for herbicide and pesticide are greatly reduced or even eliminated – which also puts hydroponic farming 90% of the way towards organic certification without any extra effort on the part of the farmer. (note: it is fairly easy to get organic certification in a hydroponic operation, yes, organic is possible)

HYDROPONIC EQUIPMENTS

1. Hydroponic tray

Dimension :22’(length)  X 18’(wide) X 4’ (height)

Maximum volume = 20 litres

Made from polypropylene copolymer and non recyclable material

2. Polystrene cover

Support the medium basket

Avoid ray and support athmosphere

The best material use help to avoid heat absorbent

Make the air smoothly

Density = 3 kg

White colour rebound lights to help photosynthesis process

3. Hydroponic fertilizer

Fertilizer should have chelating agent especially humates because these humates makes Fe to be taken by roots. Chelating agent can reduce the increasing of Ph by bicarbonate that include in fertilizer. If fertilizer doesn’t have chelating agent, Fe will become prepicitate in the bottom of the tray.  Chelating agent(humates) helps gaining nutrient from the roots. Humates also act as to prevent poison Cu and Fe to the crops.

4. Media basket

Best combination (as a coolant)

Small rectangular hole = for plant strength

Round hole for root and nutrient

Ergonomics structure = easy harvesting

5. Measuring cup

Volume 250 ml (lab standard beaker measurement

To measure the fertilizer which used in the dilution

Good measuring is important to produce high quality yield

Need to be clean before & after use it to avoid algae

6. Medium strings

Growth Medium is an alternative that used in hydroponics planting technique. It is used to absorb the fertilizer’s dilution.

Note: Do not put the Growth medium into the water because it will attract algae

7. Seeds

We are providing 2 types of seeds in our hydroponic set

ADVANTAGES OF OUR HYDROPONIC EQUIPMENT (without pump)

☺     Clean, high quality and poison-free vegetables

☺     No high skills and knowledge on agriculture required

☺     No wide areas required

☺     No electric pump required

☺     No weeding and watering required

☺     No organic fertilizers required

☺     Can be planting anywhere, anytime and by anyone

☺     Easy for insect protection

☺     Easy and save

☺     Mininum manpower

☺     High break even

Using hydroponic technique, crops would be fresh and clean

3T CONCEPT

Basic concept to hydroponics cultivation method that we introduce was 3T or TANAM(PLANTING)–TINGGAL(LEAVE)-TUAI(HARVEST). This concept is very easy to understand and practiced by everyone.

PLANTING

Planting starts from mixing the hydroponic fertilizer until the planting process.

A. HOW TO MIX HYDROPONIC FERTILIZER:

Step1: pour 20 liter water into the hydroponic tray (water should be 1 inch from above)

Step 2: Pour in 20 cups (250ml) of pipe water  into a pail ready with cover. Pour in fertilizer, stir for dilution process.

Step 3: Stir fertilizer and put only 2 cups into the tray.

Step 4: Stir the mixture in the tray. Cover the tray with the polystrene cover and prepare for planting process.

Step 5: Cover the pail with fertilizer and keep for the next use. Do not expose to sunlight.

B. PLANTING PROCESS:

Step 1: Insert the strings into the media basket. Pull the strings to make a wick.

Note: Ensure all holes around media basket are closed to avoid mosquitos

Step 2: Sow three seeds into each basket

Note: Due to different maturity period, apply only one type of plant per tray.

LEAVE

When nursery process was done, new crop just now left behind exposed place to sunshine. This is to ensure crop get enough nutrition beside guard against plant growth of hindered.

Quickest seed germination time using this method is about 2-3 days (depends on type of crop that is planted). On the 7th day, leave only 2 in media basket

Germination period is 2 to 3 days. On the 7th day, remove one and allow 2 plants in each basket.

HARVEST

Harvest time is approximately 4-6 weeks (depends on type of crop that is planted).

SET KAZZPONIC

HARGA:RM45.00

TERDIRI DARIPADA:

1 Takung Hidroponik

1 Penutup Polystreen

1 Baja Hidroponik

1 Cawan Penyukat(250ml)

2 Jenis Biji Benih(Pilih sama ada: Kailan, Kangkung, Sawi, Bayam, Salad)

2 Bungkus Benang Media

8 Bakul media

HARGA PEMBELIAN UNTUK SETIAP UNIT

1. TAKUNG HIDROPONIK

HARGA:RM15.00

2. PENUTUP POLYSTREEN

HARGA: RM10.00

3. BAJA HIDROPONIK

HARGA: RM20.00(Untuk 10 kali tanaman)

4. CAWAN PENYUKAT(250ML)

HARGA: 0.60 Sen

5. BIJI BENIH (Setiap satu plastik)

HARGA: RM1.00

6. BENANG MEDIA

HARGA: RM1.00(Setiap satu bungkus)

7. BAKUL MEDIA

HARGA: 0.30 Sen(Setiap 1 bakul media)

APAKAH HIDROPONIK?

Hidroponik ialah satu kaedah penanaman sayur-sayuran yang tidak menggunakan tanah.

KELEBIHAN HIDROPONIK

Hidroponik ini mempunyai beberapa kelebihan berbanding dengan sistem penanaman biasa yang menggunakan tanah seperti berikut:

• Sistem ini boleh dipraktikkan pada kawasan yang tidak sesuai untuk penanaman secara biasa seperti tanah bertoksik, padang pasir dan lain-lain;
• Sayur-sayuran akan cepat tumbuh dan mengeluarkan hasil yang berkualiti tinggi;
• Bersih dan bebas daripada sebarang racun makhluk perosak;
• Tidak perlu merumpai, menyiram dan mencangkul;
• Penggunaan air dan baja yang terkawal dan efisien;
• Pulangan hasil seunit kawasan bagi seunit masa adalah tinggi.

APAKAH SET KAZZPONIC HIDROPONIK DOMESTIK (TANPA PAM)

Set KAZZPONIC Hidroponik Domestik merupakan peralatan yang ringkas dan mudah serta murah yang boleh digunakan oleh semua golongan. Ia berupaya menghasilkan sayuran segar,bersih dan bebas dari sisa racun dengan hanya diletakkan di beranda/balkoni, kakilima/corridor,porch dan patio rumah anda. Set ini sesuai untuk mereka yang ketiadaan tanah untuk bercucuk tanam seperti dikawasan rumah teres, rumah pangsa, pangsapuri/apartment/kondominium dan menggunakan larutan baja hidroponik sahaja.

APAKAH KELEBIHAN SET KAZZ PONIC HIDROPONIK DOMESTIK?

Set ini cukup mudah untuk digunakan dan disamping itu ia tidak menggunakan pam elektrik, murah praktikal, boleh menanam sayuran disepanjang tahun (tanpa musim), tidak perlu penyiraman dan tidak perlu merumput. Yang mustahak adalah ia bebas dari semburan racun serangga. Anda akan menikmati sayuran segar dan bersih dari sisa racun.

BOLEHKAH SISTEM KAZZPONIC INI DIJADIKAN SEBAGAI HOBI?

Ya.! Ini terbukti dari sambutan orang ramai terutama warga kota dan mereka yang tidak mempunyai ruang tanah/kawasan untuk bercucuk tanam. Tambahan pula penanaman dengan cara ini tidak memerlukan kemahiran dan pengetahuan yang tinggi didalam bidang pertanian.

BOLEHKAH PENANAMAN CARA KAZZPONIC HIDROPONIK DOMESTIK DIJADIKAN LANDSKAP?

Ya.! Jika anda memiliki 4 atau 5 set hidroponik domestik dirumah dan disusun disepanjang corridor rumah anda, ia boleh menjadi seolah-olah sepeti `bunga-bungaan’. Anda dan jiran-jiran anda akan terpesona dengan sayur-sayuran anda yang subur dan segar menghijau disekitar rumah anda. Tambahan pula keadaannya yang bersih dan segar.

BAGAIMANA SISTEM INI DAPAT MENGHASILKAN SAYUR-SAYURAN UNTUK KEGUNAAN SENDIRI?

Jangkamasa penghasilan satu-satu jenis tanaman sayuran adalah lebih kurang 4 minggu. Dengan penanaman berperingkat umpamanya 4 set hidroponik domestik seminggu dan dibuat 4 minggu berturut-turut, anda akan dapat menikmati sayuran setiap hari tanpa perlu lagi pergi ke pasar. Ini tentu sekali dapat menjimatkan atau mengurangkan perbelanjaan harian anda.

APAKAH KANDUNGAN BAJA YANG TERDAPAT DALAM SISTEM KAZZPONIC INI?

Kandungan baja hidroponik untuk pemakanan pokok mengandungi unsur-unsur Makro seperti Nitrogen, Pasfurus, Kalium, Kalsium dan Sulfur. Dan juga unsur- unsur Mikro seperti Ferum, Mangganan, Zink, Kuprum, Boron dan Molybdenum.

BOLEHKAH SISTEM KAZZPONIC INI DIJADIKAN ALAT BANTUAN MENGAJAR?

Ya!. Kebelakangan ini kebanyakan sekolah telah menggunakan sistem ini didalam matapelajaran Kemahiran Hidup.

HUBUNGI KAMI UNTUK TEMPAHAN

Encik Fandi 012-274 8559
PEJABAT: 03-8926 3732
Faxs: 03-8926 3732
Email:fandi@bumisegarfish.com

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The technologically advanced Hanna Instruments HI 98129 and HI 98130 combination tester has a replaceable pH electrode cartridge with an extendable cloth junction as well as an EC / TDS graphite electrode that resists contamination by salts and other substances for a greatly extended life.

The Hanna Instruments HI 98129 and HI 98130 combination tester offers an EC/TDS conversion factor which is user selectable as is the temperature compensation coefficient. Fast, efficient, accurate, and portable, the Hanna Instruments HI 98129 and HI 98130 combination tester offers many great features.

pH meters require regular calibration to perform at their optimal level. We strongly suggest purchasing calibration solutions. We offer both calibration kits and individual solutions to meet your needs.